The Evolution of Fashion in India
The rich legacy of fashion in India dates back to ancient times, but the origins of the modern industry, its heritage of traditional textiles and ethnic designs came post-independence. By the swinging 1980s, trailblazers like Satya Paul heralded the first generation of Indian fashion designers. But the real pioneer was Rohit Khosla, who revolutionized fashion by co-founding the iconic label Ensemble in 1987 alongside fellow design luminaries like Tarun Tahiliani and Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla. This dazzling decade was also when the National Institute of Fashion Technology opened its doors in 1986, with an assist from the venerable Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. The Delhi NIFT instantly became the epicenter for training local talent and setting off the big bang of India's fashion revolution. Initially channeling a couture spirit in the 80s, Indian fashion morphed into prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) lines once the 90s rolled around. This pivot was fueled by the triple threat of a booming domestic retail sector, outsourced apparel contracts streaming in from abroad, and upgraded local manufacturing abilities. Another factor driving these shifts was the liberalization of the Indian economy in 1990, which blew the floodgates open for the fashion industry to surge ahead at full throttle. Riding this tsunami of free market forces, both the volume and variance of styles exploded over the decade that followed. Capping off the millennium, the Fashion Design Council of India formed to organize India Fashion Week as a spectacle to showcase the country's glittering designers and manufacturers.
Trends Popularized through Movements
Several significant movements in India have caused specific fashion trends to grow out of them. For example, the Khadi movement led by Mahatma Gandhi in the early 20th century promoted the use of handspun and handwoven cloth, symbolizing Indian self-reliance and nationalism. Designers continue to incorporate this heritage fabric into modern collections, keeping its legacy alive. Another game-changing garment was the "Nehru jacket", whose origins remain hotly debated. This signature silhouette fused the traditional Bandhgala or Achkan with structured, shortened British fits to create an enduring indie staple. More recently, India's feminist movement has challenged traditional gender roles by birthing gender-neutral designs for the modem era. Avant-garde designers like Anvita Sharma now craft fluid garments that both men and women can share and style. Even Gen Z is overturning tired binaries through subtly defiant fashions: teaming sarees with pants instead of skirts, or donning tee-shirts in lieu of conventional ladies' blouses. Through these subtle social statements, young trailblazers are expanding the boundaries of femininity beyond dresses and skirts.
Bollywood: A New Face
Bollywood has also had a significant impact on the fashion industry in India. Films have especially influenced fashion trends in the country, with many designers creating outfits for celebrities. In turn, Bollywood provides a platform for Designers to showcase their designs, which have popularize certain styles and trends–a prime example of this was in Rani Aur Rocky ki Prem Kahaani, in which designer Manish Malhotra’s chiffon sarees worn by Alia Bhatt became hugely popular. This is an example of how designers get front-and-center attention through Bollywood and how the industry helps popularize traditional Indian clothing, such as the saree and the salwar kameez, among a wider audience. Movies have also catalyzed trends, like wearing dupattas over the head after Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge or saree backless blouses post Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham. Actors and actresses like Ranveer Singh, Shah Rukh Khan, and Deepika Padukone have also transformed the industry with elaborate yet sensible and chic fashion styles over the years. With his extravagance and flair, Ranveer Singh has recently been crowned the king of Fashion. At the same time, Deepika Padukone, known for her minimalist makeup looks and monochromatic attire, rocks the fashion world at every event. However, a true fashion icon and influence, not just on Bollywood as an industry but on everyone watching, is Shah Rukh Khan. He has curated and popularized, for over 25 years, leather jackets, choker necklaces, the gelled hairstyle (from RaOne), and cargo pants and army print pants with muscle fit tees (from Jab Tak Hain Jaan).
CLAD – A Modern Stride
From heritage fabrics like Khadi to Bollywood stars, we've seen how societal shifts shape fashion trends in India. As CLAD begins its journey with this rich repository of fashion India to learn from, we can only hope to leave a legacy behind. Noticing a lack of a fashion community on campus, founders Kudrat and Manav envisioned a club where students could share and celebrate their passion for fashion. CLAD aims to liven up Ashoka's campus culture through fun events like clothing swaps, design workshops, and talks by industry professionals. The club welcomes all students, from fashion novices to design experts. In its first year, CLAD has quickly stitched together a vibrant community, allowing Ashoka students to thread their creative spirit through style.
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